Page 25 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT

Handicrafts & Carpets Related Theory for Exercise 1.2.11
Hand Embroidery Artisan - Stitches and Threads

Different fabrics

Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• explain raffal fabric
• explain the term “count”
• explain the fineness parameter “count 64”
• explain the fineness parameter “count 120”
• explain why shahtoosa fabric is king of wool
• explain about pashmina fabric
• explain about toosha fabric
• list the features of semi pashmina fabric.

Raffal fabric • Definition: Number of length units per unit weight.
“Raffal” shawls are produced solely from Pure Merino • Example (English Cotton Count - Ne):
Wool. The micron of the wool used is mainly between - 1 Ne = 1 hank (840 yards) per pound.
19-21 which guarantees that the fabric will not cause
any problems with itch or prickle against delicate skin. - 64 Ne = 64 hanks (each 840 yards) per pound
Its warm, but very light in weight, “Raffal” wraps do not → very fine yarn.
crease which makes them ideal for travelling. ü Higher count = finer yarn
From Marino wool, raffal shawl have been woven on Ð Lower count = coarser yarn
handloom which are a combination of traditional skill
and contemporary colours and designs. The shawls are 2 Direct System (higher number = thicker yarn)
manufactured with finest wool and to create a variety • Used for: Synthetic fibers (Denier, Tex).
besides pure wool shawl. Shawls have been made in
wool/silk, pashmina/silk blends as well. (Fig 1) • Definition: Weight per unit length.

Fig 1 • Example (Tex):
- Tex 20 = 20 grams per 1,000 meters.

- Tex 100 = 100 grams per 1,000 meters →
thicker yarn.
ü Higher count = coarser/thicker yarn

Ð Lower count = finer yarn.
Yarn/thread count in embroidery?
In embroidery, thread count indicates how fine or thick
a thread is. The most common system used for natural
fiber threads like cotton or wool is the English Cotton
Count (Ne) system, which is indirect:
Yarn count is a numerical expression that indicates the • Count (Ne) = Number of hanks (1 hank = 840 yards)
fineness or thickness of a yarn. It tells us how thick or thin in one pound of yarn.
the yarn is, and helps in standardizing yarns for weaving,
knitting, and embroidery. • So, higher count = thinner/finer thread, and lower
count = thicker thread.
Two main systems of yarn count
1 Indirect System (higher number = finer yarn)
• Used for: Cotton, Wool (Worsted), Linen, etc.

Count 64 vs Count 120 – comparison
Aspect Count 64 Thread Count 120 Thread
Definition 64 hanks of 840 yards per pound 120 hanks of 840 yards per pound
Thickness Fine Very fine (almost hair-like)
Weight Lighter than medium-counts Extremely light
Smoothness Smooth, soft Silky smooth, ultra-soft

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